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2013年10月10日 星期四

[蜜月之旅] Day 2 巴黎到漢斯的一日香檳之旅 One-Day Champagne Tour in Reims

        今天是我們期待已久的漢斯之旅!漢斯是和巴黎距離不到一小時火車的小城市,和鄰近的城市艾本尼都是香檳產區。只有在這裡產的氣泡酒叫做香檳喔!

        We are going to Reims today! Reims is only 45 mins away by speed train, TGV, from Paris. Reims and the nearby Epernay are the major Champagne regions in France. Only the sparkling wines from here can be called Champagne.


        火車票也是很久以前就買好了。我們在希爾頓早餐一開始,六點半,就跑去吃了。希爾頓的早餐超棒也超級豐富,尤其是麵包區!原來的火車是七點五十八分從巴黎東站出發。我們大約七點四十到。結果!來巴黎的慘劇第二件!車站的讀票機一直查不到我們的訂票人名字,美國人一直用我們的名(first name)去查,結果都找不到。所以我們只好去櫃檯排隊!結果大概排了五十的人吧!只有三個窗口!法國人有很悠閒!等我們排到時已經錯過班車了。結果發現竟然是用姓(last name)!快要把我氣炸了!但是因為有和酒窖約時間,所以還是想要去。於是改下一班車前往,但是一個人要多付23歐元,他說因為我原來買的是超便宜早鳥票,現在買的差價就是這樣。想想也使好攤手付了。不付的話就去不了也喝不到香檳了。

        We bought our ticket long ago and paid the early bird discounted price. Since we bought the 1st train that leaves from Pairs l'Est at 7:58AM, we were the first to show up for the Hilton breakfast. We loved their breakfast that offered to the Gold member and above (Thanks, Butch!). There were so much to choose from, especially the bread section. 

        Our train was scheduled to leave Paris l'Est station at 7:58AM. I made it to the station at 7:40AM and thought everything will go smoothly since all we need is to use the yellow self-service machine to print our tickets. BUT, we could not get to our reservation no matter how many times we tried. The system asked our NAME and RCSIII kept use our first names to try, but all failed. So we had to go to the counter. When we walked in, it was 7:49AMish, and there were like 50 people in front of us with only 3 windows opened. The French really took their time. When we got to the window, our train has already left and they also kept trying my first name and failed. Finally, they tried my last name and it went through. I was SO MAD!!!!! But since we still got the return ticket and reserveation with Champagne wineries, we still really want to go. Therefore, we had to pay 23 Euro per person extra for the next train to Reims. I was depressed for a while, but again, RCSIiI cheered me up. After all, if we don't go, we cannot taste the champagne...


        今天是從巴黎的東站出發,這裡在電影愛蜜麗有出現過,是她追出紅鞋子神秘人的地方。因為離下班火車還有一個半小時,所以我們就跑到車站外面逛逛照相。另外我們還在車站裡買到了iphone5的nano SIM卡。

        Today, we will leave from Paris Gare de l'Est. It was in the movie, Amilie. It is the station where Amily chased the mysterious man with red shoes. Since we still had one and a half hours to kill, we walked around the station and took some picture. Oh, we also found RCSIII's nano SIM card for his iPhone 5.



        其實周遭並不是太美麗。有點髒髒,外牆上也有很多塗鴉。果然還是電影拍得比較美。
        Actually, it wasn't too pretty around the station, it was a little bit dirty with too many walls had graffiti on them. Movie really made it much prettier.


        終於到了我們上車的時間了。記得車票都要自己去找黃色的機器按壓日期才算是有效喔。不然會被錢,或是被罵(也可能兩者都會發生,最衰!)。

        Finally it's time for us to board our train. Make sure you must validate your train ticket in France using this yellow machine before you board. Otherwise, if you get caught, you may be fined!


        一大早起床弄到現在才坐上火車,終於可以休息一下了。這是我們在法國搭的第一般快速火車(TGV),照一下留念。
        It was funny that we got up so early this morning but didn't get to be on the train until now. This is our first speed rail (TGV) experience. 

         很快就到了。今天也是陰陰的天氣,偶而還會下一下小雨。但是還是可以蠻舒服的在外面逛。車站的對面就是一個公園。在車站的的詢問處那了張地圖後,就可以開始走走看看了。漢斯並不大,差不多一日遊就夠了。重點是一定要預約一下香檳酒窖看一看,喝一喝!

        45 minutes passed pretty fast and we were in Reims. It was a overcast day, again, with occasional rain, but it wasn't too bad. Right across from the Reims station is a park, and the town starts after you pass the park. After getting a map from the info desk, we started our day in Reims. It is not a big town (city), thus, a one-day trip would be enough. Most important of all, we really should book a champagne tour with one of (or as many as you like) the many wineries here.

        這裡比巴黎乾淨,雖然說建築物部分並沒有比較壯觀。還有就是這趟來法國發現到處都是旋轉木馬!出現在城市的一角相當的浪漫又有童趣。我也很喜歡!
     
        Reims is way cleaner than Paris! Although the buildings weren't as magnificent as the ones we saw in Paris. By the way, we saw so many marry-go-round in France during our honeymoon. It's quite romantic and fun. I like it!

         在人肉GPS閱讀地圖的同時,我也幫他照的許多男模照。我倒是照的很開心,還一直控制他叫他假裝看別的地方,幫他調姿勢之類的。

        When human GPS (AKA RCSIII) was trying to study the map, I took many male-model like pictures of him. I kept giving him orders to look away, lean against the wall...etc. I had fun. (Not sure about what he thinks.)



        沒多就,我們就走到了漢斯最有名的聖母院。(話說法國實在是有太多聖母院了,或是類似的天主教堂。看到後來我們都有點快分不出差別了。)

        Not long, we arrived at the famous Notre-Dame de Reims. (to be honest, there were so many Notre-Dame, Cathedral in France/Europe....it was hard to tell the differences in the end.)



        RCSIII說他媽總是說要是景點照片裡面沒有人影,那根本無法證明你來過。所以我們硬是照了些背景有聖母院的一部分的相片。我們真的來過!

        RCSIII said that is mom always tells him that if there's no people in the picture of a place, you can't even prove that those people have actually been to the place. Therefore, I took some pictures with RCSIII in them. We really were here!


        因為酒廠離城鎮中心有一小段距離,需要過河。因此我們就找路,想要先到達酒廠附近。今天本來有預約兩家,分別是早上十點和下午兩點。但是因為火車沒趕上第一班,所以我們打電話去早上那家酒廠,他說他們下我最遲的參觀時間是四點。不過兩家酒廠之間有點距離,不管是走路或是電車,外加找路時間,大概要預留一下40分鐘吧。

        Because the wineries are located slightly away from the central city across the river, so we decided to try to find our way there first. Our original plan was to visit 2 wineries today at 10AM & 2PM, but since we didn't catch the early train, I called in the first winery to cancel the reservation, and they told me that their afternoon tours are at 3PM (60mis) or 4PM (30min). Since the 2 wineries are located at different parts of town, we need to budget 40 minutes to go from here.

        不管如何,我們大約一點不到就找到了下午兩點預約的酒廠。先在門口照照相後,我們就相去找午餐填飽肚子。靠近城鎮的四周有比較多吃的選擇,但是過河以後就是有很多酒廠聚集區。四周可以吃得並不多。

        No matter what, we found our way to Lanson, the first winery, a little bit before 1PM.After taking some pictures outside of the gate, we decided to find some simple lunch. There aren't that many options in the winery areas, most of the stores/restaurants are located at the downtown area. 


        我們找了好久才終於找到一家麵包店。完全就是救星!趕進衝進去買一個雞肉三明治還有蘋果塔,外加一瓶水。我用破破的法文,他們也不說英文!但是還是成功交易完成。

        After searching and searching, we finally found a bakery! It totally saved our lives. We went inside and got a chicken sandwich, a apple tart and a bottle of water. I had to use my broken French and they did not speak English. But we got what we wanted!


        看看這個人有多餓!拿到三明治後趕緊先咬幾口。
        Look how hungry this person was! He started eating right away.


        我們決定去路面電車的車站,因為是唯一有位子坐的地方,中午又剛好沒有什麼人在等車。吃的同時我們也順便研究等等要怎麼搭車去第二家酒廠,又怎麼買票等等。

        We decided to have our lunch in the Tram station since that's the only place have seats. We were lucky that almost no one was there during lunch time. While we were eating, we try to learn the tram map and how to buy tickets.


        這兩天我們都有吃三明治,讓本來就愛三明治的美國人非常興奮。我則是覺得麵包是真的蠻好吃的,而且相對便宜很多,大約三到五歐元就可以買一長條三明治。我大部份都和RCSIII分食外加一份甜點。
        
        We had different kind of sandwich yesterday and today. The sandwich lover, RCSIII, really enjoyed it. And I also like to bread a lot. It is also a much cheaper and more convenient meal option here that ranging between 3-6 Euro. I usually share one sandwich with RCSIII plus share a dessert item.

        這份雞肉三明治在濕濕冷冷地漢斯車站真的很好吃!
        This chicken sandwich was really good especially in the cold and wet Reims' tram station.


        這個蘋果塔也是美國人一直吵著想要吃的。完全是像小孩一樣。不過還蠻好吃的就是了。而且也不會需要刀叉等等,算是方便的小甜點。口味很樸實!
   
        RCSIII acted like a child and kept asking for this apple tart. So, here you go! It's not bad. Well...it tasted like an apple tart. However, it was a pretty good choice then since it was pretty convenient to eat.


        吃完之後我們就進去酒廠大廳等,今天的第一站是Lanson。在我預約了之後,我在耶魯這裡一家我愛的餐廳,Caseus,的酒單上看到他們的其中一隻黑標香檳,要價六十美金。外加網路上TripAdvisor大家也很推這的參觀行程,只要十歐元,總共有一小時參觀解說,外加一杯香檳品嚐。算是值回票價,所以我們都相當期待。

        After lunch, we walked in to the lobby of the winery. Today's first stop, Lanson. After I booked my tour over Skype, I found that this is on the wine list of Caseus, a nice little restaurant I really like that locates in New Haven. That have a Lanson black label for $65/bottle. In addition to that, folks on Tripadvisors really recommend this place. With just 10 Euro, you get 1 hour tour and 1 glass of tasting. It's quite cheap, actually. RCSIII and I are bother very excited about it.


        導覽的開始先是用地圖解說一下法國的香檳分區,成分等等,就開始參觀了。他們酒廠裡面就有種自己的少量葡萄樹,雖說大部份的葡萄都是在他們自己另外的葡萄園取得。

        The tour started with some explanation of different champagnes from different parts of France (using a map)...etc. Then we started to walk around. Inside their winery, they have some grape trees, although most of their grapes are from their other farms.

        進入工廠部分,聽解說員仔細講解生產線發酵槽等等。話說導覽人員的英文實在是有太重的法國腔了。連美國人也聽不太懂。我們每次聽完都會面面相覷,然後用中文說:”他剛剛說什麼?“

        Then, we moved in to the factory part. Although we tried very hard to understand the English, but our guide's English had a such strong French accent that it wasn't easy to understand. I though it was just me, but even RCSIII couldn't get it either. Every time she will end up saying "I will now take you to XXXXX and we can XXXX", RCSIII and I would just look at each other and spoke Chinese "what did she just say?" or "Where is she taking us to?" 

        接下來就要進入我們最期待有暗迷摸的酒窖區。
        Next, we are finally going into the dark cave!



        裡面真的有好多好多香檳。除了照相以外,我們也是有好好聽解說的。
        There were soooo many bottles. Yes, besides taking pictures, we did pay attention to the guide.


        差不多一小時就結束了,已經下午三點左右。幸好中午有吃些東西墊肚子,因為我們終於可以喝香檳了。

        Time flies! One hour has passed and now is time to drink some champagne! It is now ~3PM.

        
        話說我們今天真是太太太幸運了。因為今天我們的參觀夥伴們,有三位是來自美國科羅拉多州餐廳的酒類採購人員。因此,上圖的導覽小姐就對我們說我們今天特別優待,將會品嘗一系列的好香檳。

        We were so lucky today! 3 of our tour members were from some restaurants in Colorado, and they were here to look for nice champagnes for the restaurants. The guides told us that she does not make any distinctions between them and us (AKA normal tourists), so we will be tasting whatever they want taste. AND, it's going to be a series of great champagne selections.



        真的是很棒。喝到第一杯時覺得今天有來真是太好了!雖然一大早折騰了半天。以下幾位就是讓我們其他五人喝到爽的大善人。他們都很敬業的喝完就吐掉,但是我們其他人都通通喝下肚。

        It was so great and relaxing!!! During my first glass, I thought to myself that "thank god that we came here today." Although we has a such tough morning. Oh yes, those three people are responsible for our champagne blast. They all spit out right after they tasted it, but we normal people just drank it all.


        結果我們竟然喝了一個小時還沒品完!解說小姐一瓶一瓶開,開到第四瓶時美國人就用中文對我說:天啊!然後我們繼續開心的一直喝。結果總共喝了9瓶!天啊!才付10歐元耶!因為喝太久了,所以根本趕不到下一場。但是我們卻非常滿足。大概是喝了點小酒,心情也很放鬆,所以就想說今天就在這裡好好享受吧!話說另一家酒廠是要收十七歐元而提供一小時的解說以及一杯中高等級的香檳。不管如何,今天在Lanson真是超划算。從中級到高級通通喝到了。

        Can you believe, we were still drinking after 1 hour! The guid lady kept open bottle after bottle. During our forth glass, RCSIII turned to me and said "GOD!" in Chinese, then, we kept drinking. In the end, we had 9 different kinds of champagne!!! NINE! And we only paid 10 Euro! How lovely!

        Since the tasting took way too long, we were not able to go to another winery in time. BUT, we don't care! This experience at Lanson was so unexpected and awesome, we don't think we need to top that off with anything else.


        當然,他們讓我們開心,也大方讓我們醉醺醺,我們也讓他賺開心!話說我們其他五人其中有四人都買了幾瓶香檳帶回家。我們也不例外。選了一瓶黑標一瓶特級香檳帶回家。後來有偷偷比價,沒有被貴到。不過特級那瓶外面買不到就是了。要直接透過酒廠買。

         Since Lanson was so generous, of course we decided to take some home. Most of us (the normal tourists) all ended up buying some champagne home. RCSIII and I bought 1 signature black label and 1   extra age made with only chardonnay grape (this one is REALLY good!). FYI, you can not buy the extra age one in stores! Hehe...


        結果美國人就帶著醉醺醺的我,兩人滿心歡喜回家!
 
        Then, RCSIII and a trunk me left Lanson with super happy mood. This is what honeymoon suppose to feel like!

        在旅行的第二天,就讓行李大大增重了。(反正辛苦的是美國人就是了。)
        And, we dramatically increased the weight of our luggage on the second day of the trip....(well...it was RCSIII's job to push the luggage after all...)

        可能是午餐真的吃的很少,所以我們又跑去找東西吃。法國麵包店真的很多,走在路上都常常可以聞到超香的烘培的味道。畢竟離搭回程車也沒有很多時間,所以又挑麵包店。美國人眼尖看到PAUL就直接說要去那裡。沒想倒,連要買啥都想好了。

        It could be that our lunch was really light or a bit too much champagne, we wanted to find something to eat again. There were really a lot of bakeries in France, everywhere! You can always smell butter and bread on the street. Since we didn't have much time before catching the return train, we picked a bakery again. RCSIII saw PAUL again and kept wanting to go there. AND he even already knew what he wanted.


        原來他一直都非常想要吃義大利國旗三明治,英文就是Flag,內容就是新鮮馬茲瑞拉起司,新鮮番茄,搭配羅勒。麵包上當然要沾上等級不錯的橄欖油。每家店的麵包選擇不一樣,今天的是橄欖長棍。

        He ordered a Flag sandwich, the classic Italian combination with fresh Mozz, tomato, basil and EVOO. Every place will use different type of bread, today in PAUL, they use olive french bread.


        吃完鹹食一定要再來一份甜點。所以我們選擇了可麗露。(其實是我選的啦)結果結論是萊姆酒味太重,美國人不愛。一直說我們在台灣吃的神旺後面的作田麵包做的可麗露他比較喜歡。我倒是也是。這一顆表皮有太軟,酒味是有點重。

        After the savory course, of course we HAD to end with something sweet. So we decided on Canale (well...I picket it). It turned out that its rum flavor is slightly over powering and the crust was a bit too soft. RCSIII is not a huge fan of. He kept saying that the Japanese bakery (can't recall the name, but we still know the location) we always go to when we were in Taiwan makes the best canale he has ever had. Well...the canale there was pretty good, but some places in NYC also did a good job in canales....too bad that RCSIII was never able to try them with me.


        吃完一後拍拍屁股,我們也差不多要搭車為巴黎了。臨走前照一下漢斯車站。(美國人其實有在照片裡喔。)

        After our afternoon snack, we really needed to get going to catch our train back to Paris. Before we left Reims, here is a picture with RCSIII in it (although very tiny) with the station in the background.


        話說我們兩一搭上車,竟然一秒之內昏睡。不知是不是因為太早起來有太多香檳。不過到達巴黎後我們還要轉車到拉都方斯。時間已經大約晚上七點多,加上手提重物,所以我們就回飯店放東西,接下來到飯店旁邊的超市,Monoprix,去搜尋晚餐。除了東逛西逛看看法國人超市都是什麼之外,我們還買了今天的晚餐。因為濕濕冷冷地,所以很想要喝熱湯。因此就是泡麵了。話說選擇真不多!另外還買了煮好的淡菜,直接加到杯麵裡一起吃。美國人也買了一包“聽說日本人都愛掃貨”的馬德連小蛋糕。

        When we settled on the train, it took no time for us to fall a sleep...deeply and soundly. Perhaps it was all the crap in the early morning plus the champagne. When we got to Paris and witch to subway so that we can go back to our hotel in La Defense, it was around 7PM. Since we were carrying heavy champagne bottles, we decided to go back to the hotel and drop them off first. Then, we wend to the supermarket next to our hotel, Monoprix, to get something for dinner. We spent quite some time in the supermarket and went through all the isles just to learn what French people have in their supermarkets. Because it's wet and cold today, we (well...I) really want to drink some hot soup. So we ended up getting some ramen cups. (To be honest, there weren't that many options...unlike in Asia...we do make the best ramens). Besides that, we found some cooked mussels and we bought a box of it to add in the ramen. RCSIII also insisted in buying a bag of Madeleine cake after I told him "I heard that all Japanese tourists always come to French supermarket to clear the shelves of those babies." 


        回到旅館,坐在床上,邊吃泡麵喝熱湯看電視!相當舒服!在自己家不能做的事在外面可以做格外享受!

        Aftern we got back to the hotel, we just relaxed on the bed, watched TV and ate ramen! SO NICE!        

        吃飽喝足要睡覺了!我們明天要去摘我們法國的第一顆米其林星星!
        With 2 happy tommy, we were going to bed! Tomorrow, we are going to taste our first French Michellin star at La Truffière!

2 則留言:

  1. 你好:請問要如何預約香檳區的預約呢??因為我五月就要去法國自助旅遊了!!也想要來去微醺一下呀!謝謝!!感激不盡!!

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    1. 我是寫e-mail去預約的。通常點個兩天左右就會收到回復。
      我有幾家是打電話(Skype)去問的。
      通常是會確認時間長短還有收費(有點重要,貴或不貴至少都有心理準備)。

      刪除

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